Spiral Purse
by Linda
A little funky purse with a shoulder strap, or handles if you prefer. I was swatching in rounds, and thought if instead of using a slip st to join at the end of each round and making those first few chains (which seem to always stand out no matter what I do), it would look really cool if it kinda spiralled around instead. I played around with it a bit and came up with the method used here.
![[Spiral Purse - Before Shoulder Strap]](images/spiral_purse_01.jpg)
It's easy to make, mostly hdc's with just a few slip sts. The body is made in two pieces, joined together, with the strap sewn on afterwards. The only thing you need to get used to is working in the rear loop. This is not the same as the back loop that you may be used to. It's a good idea to make a swatch til you're certain you're crocheting into the right spot on each st.
You'll need:
- chunky weight yarn (abt 16 sts per 4 inches / 10 cm), about 100 grams (3.5 oz) or 150 metres (I used Bernat Softee Chunky in Soft Taupe), check out the selection of yarns at
joann.com
- crochet hook to produce a fairly dense fabric, I used 4.50 mm
- Ch 4, sl st to join.
- 10 hdc in ring. Do not sl st to join this or any future rounds!
- 2 hdc in rear loop of each st around = 20 sts. Use a split ring marker to mark end of rnds (or get into the habit of counting these sts to keep track).
- *Hdc in next st, 2 hdc in foll st, rep from * around = 30 sts.
- *Hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in foll st, rep from * around = 40 sts.
- *Hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in foll st, rep from * around = 50 sts.
- Keep going in same manner. At point where it's 60 sts around, it's abt the size of a cd / dvd!
- Stop when it's the size you want. I stopped around 100 sts in round, about 7.25" diameter (abt 22.75" circumference).
- Work 1 final rnd in sc, increasing as before, and still working into rear loop - total 110 sts.
- Make another the same. When the second is almost complete, compare its size with the first. Skip the final sc rnd if your gauge has changed and this spiral would be too large, or add another round if it would be too small. End off.
- To assemble, place the 2 pieces front to front (inside out) and sc tog abt 3/4 the way around, placing tail of the separate pieces near the middle of the seam (to be at bottom of bag where it's less noticeable).
- For shoulder strap, chain 120 sts.
- Hdc in rear loop of 2nd ch from hk and every hook to other end.
- Hdc 3 more sts in same st.
- Hdc in back lp down other side of starting ch.
- Work 3 hdc's in final st.
- Sl st to first st to join round, end off.
- Attach ends of strap to outside of bag about an inch (2.5 cm) below ends of top opening.
- Find the rear loop by locating the normal front and back loops at the top of the st of the previous row. Tip your work forward, towards you, and look for a fairly horizontal thread sitting on the back of the hdc stitch. You found it!
- If you're really finding it a pain in the butt to work int he rear loop, simply work in the back loop instead. But the rear loop looks much better, trust me. :)
- Adjust shoulder strap length to length preferred, or make short handle(s) instead, if desired.
- To increase or decrease the size of the bag, work fewer or more rounds per side. If you go much larger though, you'll probably lose some of the spiral effect.
- You can attach a zipper, velcro or small button to close the top if you like, but if the opening is not too large, this isn't really necessary, unless you're the type of person who uses your purse as a football. :) I decided to make two chains of about 20 sts each, turn, then sc in each st to end. I attached one to the front top edge and one to the back top edge. Tie them together with an overhand knot to close the top of the purse.
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