Ribbed Socks
by Linda
![[Ribbed Socks]](images/ribsox.jpg)
These socks are the result of my desire to crochet a sock that doesn't
create a slanting line all the way down the foot due to slip stitching
each round together. After a few tries, I came up with something that
seems to work well. If you try them, please
let me know what you think.
They're worked in lengthwise rows. The heel is made by increasing and
then decreasing the number of stitches in that area of the sock. The seam
is then slip stitched together, then the toe is worked in the round at the
end of the foot. It makes for a bulky, yet comfy and easy fitting sock.
Be sure to check out my Peach Ankle
Socks, too.
- approx 110 grams Paton's LaLaine DK superwash wool
- hook in appropriate size (I used 3 mm)
- fits women's size 8 Canadian shoe (about 9 inches)
- Chain 40
Note: For each of the following rows, chain 1 at end, turn.
Turning ch is not included in stitch count.
- Sc in 2nd ch from hook and continue til end - 39 sts plus turning ch
- Sc through back loop only in 2nd ch from hook and continue til end -
39 sts
- Repeat this last row twice more.
- Work as previous row, but only for first 18 sts, *2 sc in next st* 3
times altogether, sc last 18 sts - 42 sts
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* 3 times
altogether, sc last 18 sts - 45 sts
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts* 3
times altogether, sc in last 18 sts - 48 sts
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts* 3
times altogether, sc in last 18 sts - 51 sts
Note: You should have 8 rows, or 4 'ridges' completed at this
point.
- Sc through back loop only in 2nd ch from hook and continue til end -
51 sts
- Repeat this last row 10 times altogether - 9 ridges in total
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *sc next two sts together, sc in each of next
3 sts* 3 times altogether, sc in last 18 sts - 48 sts
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *sc next two sts together, sc in each of next
2 sts* 3 times altogether, sc in last 18 sts - 45 sts
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *sc next two sts together, sc in next st* 3
times altogether, sc in last 18 sts - 42 sts
- Work sc in first 18 sts, *sc next two sts together* 3 times
altogether, sc in last 18 sts - 39 sts
Note: You should have 11 ridges at this point.
- Sc through back loop only in 2nd ch from hook and continue til end -
39 sts
- Repeat this last row 14 times altogether - 18 ridges in total
- Bring beginning of piece up behind working edge. Working through
front loops of row just worked, sc the two edges together. Then turn
right side out.
- Work will now be done in the round. Do not chain 1 or turn
work at the end of each round. Instead, slip stitch to first stitch
of that round.
- Pick up sts for toe by making 36 sc around toe opening.
- *Hdc in first 7 sts, hdc 2 tog* all around.
- Work 32 hdc for next round.
- *Hdc in first 6 sts, hdc 2 tog* all around.
- Work 28 hdc for next round.
- *Hdc in first 5 sts, hdc 2 tog* all around - 24 sts
- *Hdc in first 4 sts, hdc 2 tog* all around - 20 sts
- Slip stitch 2 sts together all around. Break yarn and draw through
remaining stitches. Tighten up and fasten toe closed.
- Make another one exactly the same.
- Variation:
If you find the ankle looser than you like, at ankle end of the piece,
work slip stitches instead of single crochets for 10 - 15 stitches every
few rows to 'pull it in'. (The end farthest away from the first loop of
your beginning chain is the ankle.)
- You can easily adjust the frequency and number of decreases for the
toe to suit your preference ... or your foot. ;)
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