Mitred Fabric - Diamonds
Mitred knitting, mitered knitting, modular knitting, domino knitting - a rose by any other name, still consists of geometric shapes, usually squares or triangles, worked in the appropriate sequence and place, one after the other, joined via picked up stitches from a previous section.
This is the fourth in my series of documents on mitred knitting.
Here you will find instructions for constructing fabric from mitred squares, in which the squares are orientated as diamonds (point facing downward, not the flat edge). My other documents (Basic Mitred Square,
Joining a Second Mitred Square
Joining a Mitred Square on 2 Sides)
explain how to make and attach one diamond to the next while creating the fabric.
Mitred Fabric - Diamonds
One of the best things about mitred knitting, besides how fun it is to create geometric shapes and watch your creation grow from a little square into something wonderful, is that - if planned carefully - there are very few yarn ends to deal with!
- Firstly, you need to find or make yourself some graph paper and orient it 45 degrees to one side (so the squares look like diamonds). Label one part Top or Up right away, to lessen confusion later on. You can even cut away the excess paper for partial rows and columns of diamonds you won't be using. This way your paper will be properly oriented, ie square or rectangular, while you work.
- I hope you've already picked out your colours, or main colour, for each diamond. This will make things much easer at this point. If not, choose two or three (or however many) main colours you'll use to as placeholders for the different coloured diamonds you'll use. Let's say you'll choose red, blue and green as your placeholder colours. Grab some pencil crayons or markers in those colours and keep them handy.
- Now, this part can be a bit confusing. It's highly recommended that you make at least a small sample of 3 diamonds to help you visualize this (see Joining a Mitred Square on 2 Sides). Your strips of diamonds will be worked and joined diagonally, from lower right to upper left. They will be oriented like this, 1 being knit first, 2 second, and 3 third, tucked into the top edges of 1 and 2.
If you were to continue knitting a fourth diamond right after diamond 3, it would be situated like this:
Continuing the same way, if we work another strip, this would be the result:
1 2 5
Diamonds 1, 2 and 5 are knit as first squares;
4 as a second squares (joined to a previous square on one side);
3, 6, 7 and 8 as squares joined on 2 sides.
- The resulting fabric has zig zag edges on all four sides, but will be more or less triangular if you continue in this same manner, or...
- Rectangular - Presumably, before you sat down to design this fabric, you've figured out how wide your fabric must be along its bottom edge, as well as the width (from point to point) of your diamonds. For example's sake, we'll say the fabric needs to be about 46 inches across. Your diamonds are 4 inches wide, so we'll use 12 of them. This makes 48 inches, but since we like our sweaters loose, some extra ease won't hurt. :)
- Grab a pen and mark the left, lower most diamond on your page as 1A - your first diamond to complete. Label the one immediately to its right as 2A - your second diamond to complete. The next to the immediate right will be 3A - if you already know this is not the third diamond to complete, good for you! Continue labelling each square following the naming pattern established until you reach 12A - the rightmost edge of the bottom edge of your fabric.
- Now, move one row up on your chart, and begin labelling the next row. Remember, youre strips will be worked up and to the left. So the first diamond in row 2 is snuggled in between the tops of 1A and 2A. This should be labelled 2B. Why not 1B? Because its the second diamond you'll make in your second diagonal strip. It's right after 2A, and that's the diamond whose last st you're holding before you begin picking up sts along the upper left edge of 2A and the upper right edge of 1A.
- Continue in this same manner, naming the diamonds as established. You'll probably find it easier to work in the same order you'll knit them - starting with 5A for example, then labelling 5B, 5C, etc. As you may have noticed, the number part of the name refers to the diagonal strip of diamonds that you work one after the other and the letter part refers to how far up the fabric you are from the bottom.
- After you reach the rightmost side of the fabric, your initial diamond for each row will begin further up the side of the fabric. Match the letters with those to the left and the numbers in the normal order.
- Once you're done naming (and labelling) the diamonds, you can begin to use your markers or pencil crayons to colour in the diamonds to follow your intended colour design.
- Why bother with all this labelling? Well, as you take notes while knitting up your garment, you will find it extremely helpful to have them labelled - trust me. :)
- Here's a wee sample of what I'm talking about:
- If you truly are making a cardigan for your project, or any other piece of clothing that isn't perfectly square or rectangular, you'll need to measure (either yourself or a piece of similar clothing that fits correctly) to determine where the armholes go, how large to make them, where to start the neckline and how to shape it, etc. Or you could refer to a pattern you already own, a boxy shape is best, for some guidelines.
- I never said this would be easy, but boy, what a feeling of accomplishment once you've completed it!
- To learn more about mitred knitting, check out
Domino Knitting by Vivian Hoxbro.
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