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Linda's Sock Formula 3

by Linda

Note: This is Version 3 of my Sock Formula, with a square (Dutch) heel, and the heel flap worked on the approximately half the number of ankle sts. This version also has a toe decreased to about 50% of the body stitches.

If you enjoy making your own socks, the chart below might be of help. I got tired of calculating and recalculating every time I made a new pair of socks, so I decided to put it all into a chart that I can refer to when needed. It's based on the fact that I use a set of four double pointed needles (not circulars), since I tend to think in a "first needle, second needle, last needle" fashion.

Below is a set of basic stitch and row numbers for socks, depending on the number of stitches you cast on. You can use it as a starting point for designing your own socks in various sizes and yarn types. Instructions have been added so it's not too confusing.

  1. Calculate how many stitches you'll need for the body of your sock. If you're making a ribbed sock, cast on this number and work desired length for leg of sock (recommended to work at least as many rounds as there are stitches). Then go to Step 3.

    If you'll be using stocking stitch or any stitch pattern other than ribbing, and need:

    28   32   36   40   44   48   52   56   60   64
    Cast on about:
    22   26   28   32   36   38   42   44   48   52
  2. Work ribbing for desired length. Increase evenly to:
    28   32   36   40   44   48   52   56   60   64
    stitches. You can adjust this number up or down by a stitch or two to make it work with your chosen stitch pattern. Work leg of sock in desired pattern for desired length.
    Note - If using a stitch pattern, make note of which row / round you end off with.
  3. Work heel flap back and forth in desired stitch on:
    14   16   18   20   22   24   26   28   30   32
    stitches for
    18   20   22   24   26   30   32   34   36   38
    rows, end right side facing. Leave other stitches on a separate needle for instep, to be worked again later.
  4. Working on these same stitches in your chosen heel flap stitch, work:
    10   11   12   13   14   15   16   17   18   19
    stitches, k2tog, turn. *Sl1, work 6 stitches, k2 tog tbl, turn. Sl1, work 6 stitches, k2tog, turn.* Repeat between *'s til 8 stitches remain on needle, right side facing ready to work next row.
  5. Knit across first needle, pick up:
    10   11   12   13   14   15   16   17   18   19
    stitches along heel flap. Pick up one stitch in the space between the first and second (instep) needle, knit across middle needle, pick up a stitch in the space between the second and third needle. Pick up same number of stitches along other side of heel flap. Knit 4 sts from first needle onto last needle.
  6. Knit across first needle. On second needle k2tog, work across in pattern to last two stitches, k2tog tbl (through back loops). Knit across last needle.
    Note - If you used a stitch pattern on the leg of the sock, be sure to continue from where you left off.
  7. Gusset - On first needle, knit to within last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Work across second needle in pattern. On third needle, k1, k2tog tbl (or ssk), knit to end of needle.
  8. Work one round without decreasing, knitting sts knitted on previous row and continuing to work in pattern on sts worked in pattern on previous row.
  9. Continue decreasing in above manner til about:
    28   32   36   40   44   48   52   56   60   64
    stitches remain in round.
    Note - For a wider foot, make fewer decreases; and for a narrower foot make more decreases.
  10. Continue to work til desired length is reached, about 1.5 inches shorter than foot length.
  11. Shape Toe Method One
  12. Shape Toe Method Two
  13. Don't forget to make another one exactly the same. ;)
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