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EMC2 (Easy Mini Cabled Multi Coloured) Socks - Page 2

by Linda

[EMC2 Socks]

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  1. If you want a longer leg section, continue in this same manner, changing the purl (background) then the knit (cable) colour every two or three pattern repeats, changing only one of the colours at any one time til you get the length you want, ending with the last row of a pattern repeat. It's important to end at a point when you're about to change the background colour. Break that strand as usual.
  2. Leave the strand you've been using for the knitted sts attached to the sock - you'll need it later. If you must cut it later because you need that colour for your heel flap, leave a length a foot or so long.
  3. I worked the heel flap on 22 sts (it will be a multiple of 3, plus one st, ie 19, 22, 25, 28). The heel flap should be centred on the pattern sts so that a purl st sits below the very first and very last st of the heel flap. Place the remaining (instep) stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder for now.
  4. Work back and forth in stocking st, alternating the colours worked for each stitch, working each st in the opposite colour of the one below it, changing one of the colours every 4 to 8 rows for desired heel flap length (I worked 20 rows). End ready to work a right side row.
  5. Work your favourite heel turning, still changing one and then the other of the colours every 4 rows as needed. Be sure your last colour change introduces the colour last used for the cable sts on the instep. (Note how many stitches you end with when finished turning the heel.)
  6. If you've worked only one or two rows of your current colour combination, continue with it. If you've worked 3 or 4 rows, you'll change one of the colours. One strand (matching the cable sts on the instep) will be the cable colour, change the other one to the new background colour.
  7. Work across the heel sts, alternating colours as established on the heel.
  8. With background colour, pick up sts along the side of the heel flap, make 1 stitch right before your instep sts. Work across the purl instep stitches only, slipping the knit sts as needed. Make 1 st right after the instep stitches, pick up sts along other side of heel flap. Knit across half the number of heel sts you ended with, alternating colours for each st. Your round now begins at the centre back of the sock.
  9. Working on the instep stitches only, from the wrong side (inside) of the sock, pick up the yarn you used for the cables. Slipping the background stitches as you encounter them, purl the cable stitches all across the instep. Break this yarn. My apologies to those using a circular needle, you'll need to slip some sts during this manouveur.
  10. Now, you need to rearrange your stitches. If using 4 ndls, on the second needle, there should be your original cables (I had 6) with a purl st between each, plus 4 extra sts in the background colour at each end of the ndl (I had 25). Half of the heel sts plus the rest of the picked up gusset sts should be on each of ndl 1 and ndl 3.
    Note: If using a circular needle, place markers where the ndl changes would be. If using 5 ndls, arrange as you see fit, keeping instep sts together, and using markers if needed.
  11. Work across the first needle, alternating colours with every stitch. On ndl 2, p1 with background colour, k2 with cable colour, p1 with background colour. Then continue to work in the pattern as already established on the instep sts til you reach the last 4 sts on ndl. P1 with background colour, k2 with cable colour, p1 with background colour. You now have 2 more cables set up (I had 8). Work ndl 3 the same as ndl 1.
  12. You'll continue to work cable pattern as established, with colour changes every 8 or 12 rounds (2-3 pattern repeats) on the instep sts. You'll continue to work the sole by alternating colours so the new st is not the same colour as the one on the row below it.
  13. Work another round or 2, then begin working k2tog decreases one stitch before the end of ndl 1 and an ssk decrease on sts 2 and 3 on ndl 3.
  14. Work the decreases every round or every second round as needed to fit your foot. Then continue to knit without decreasing, continuing in patterns established.
  15. When about 1.5-2 inches short of desired foot length, work 1 complete round in sole pattern. If total number of sts is odd, k2tog at one end of ndl 2 on this first round. Work another round or 2 without decreasing.
  16. Finish up with your favourite toe shaping, cut yarn and close toe.
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