Glow in the Dark Socks
I love medium and dark purple, especially when teamed up with jade or another complimentary shade of green. So... when I found some yarn in my two favourite colours, on sale, and it was 20 percent merino wool to boot, I had to grab a couple of balls. You know how it is, I would have been stupid _not_ to buy them. :)
I needed a new pair or three of socks, nice thick ones, and wanted to incorporate both the two colours in one pair. I didn't feel like doing intricately patterned knitting of any kind or yet another pair of striped socks, and had twice as much purple as green to work with. So, I came up with a very simple dotted effect. These particular shades of yarn look kind of interesting together, almost like they'd glow in the dark, hence the name of this pattern.
Unfortunately, I am not a pro at scanning, so the images show the medium minty green as off white. Just use your imagination. :)
- Approx. 150 g worsted yarn in 2 colours, wool or wool blend preferred for warmth - you'll need 100 g of your main colour, and 50 g of the contrasting colour
- Set of 4 dpn's, 3.5 mm suggested
- Gauge: approx 22 sts per 4 inches in pattern stitch
- Fits woman's shoe size 8-9 (Canadian) - almost 9 inches (17.5 cm)
- With main, cast 42 sts loosely onto 3 dpns. 15/12/15
- Work 13 or so rounds of k2 p1 ribbing.
- Knit one round even with main. Rearrange sts to 14/14/14.
- Join contrast. K1 main, k1 contrast, repeat all around.
- Knit one round with main.
- K1 contrast, k1 main, repeat all around.
- Knit another round with main.
- These last four rounds make up the stitch pattern. Repeat these four rounds 8 or 9 times altogether, ending with the solid main colour round.
- Heel Flap - On first 11 sts of ndl 1, k1 main, k1 contrast across, ending k1 main. (Place extra 3 sts onto ndl 2) Turn, slip first st. P1 main, p1 contrast, repeat across the remaining 10 sts . Continue to p1 main, p1 contrast, in pattern, across 11 more sts, making sure to purl last st with main - total 22 sts worked in this purl row (place these extra 3 sts onto ndl 2 too). Note: First st in all heel flap rows is always slipped, last st in all heel flap rows is always worked with main colour. This makes for a nicer edge to pick up sts from later on.
- Turn, slip 1. K1 main, k1 contrast, repeat all the way across, ending k1 main (following Note above).
- Turn, slip 1. P1 contrast, p1 main, repeat all the way across, ending p1 main (again following Note above).
- Repeat these two rows 9 times altogether. End right side facing. What you've done is skipped the solid main colour rows of the original pattern repeat, making the heel area sturdier and removing the need to try to carry that pesky contrasting colour back and forth across the back of the heel.
- Turning Heel - Working on these same 22 sts, continuing to knit each st in the opposite colour of the one below it (except where noted), and continuing to work the last st in each row with main, begin turning the heel. Slip 1, k13, k2tog with main, k1, turn.
- Slip 1, p7, p2tog with main, p1 with main, turn.
- Slip 1, k8, k2tog w main, k1 w main, turn.
- Continue in the same manner as these last two rows, knitting or purling an additional st before working the two together near the far end of the row. Note: The rows where you knit 12 or purl 13 will not have another st at the very end to work with your main colour. Simply skip that step for those final two rows.
- You should now have 14 sts on your needle, and be ready to work a right side row. Continuing in colour pattern as established for heel, with contrast k2tog. K1 main, k1 contrast, repeat for next 10 sts. K2tog with main for last two sts. You now have 12 sts on your needle. (The first 6 of these sts will eventually end up on ndl 3, and the last 6 on ndl 1.)
- We'll call this ndl 1, and use it to pick up sts on the first side of the heel flap.
- Pick up a st with contrast, pick up a st with main. Repeat this along the side of the heel flap, picking up 12 sts in total. Pick up a st with contrast in the space between the first and second ndl. You should have 25 sts on your ndl (12 from the heel flap and the 13 you just picked up).
- On ndl 2, work across in k1 main, k1 contrast, repeating to the end of the ndl (20 sts - the 14 that were there originally, plus 3 each from both needles that you placed there when you began working the heel flap).
- On ndl 3, pick up a st with main in the space between ndl 2 and the other side of the heel flap. Pick up 12 sts along the side of the flap, just as you did on the first side, beginning with contrast and ending with main - 13 sts total.
- K1 contrast, k1 main, repeat on first six sts of ndl one, knitting them onto ndl 3. Sts now total 58 - 19/20/19. Whew!
- Now it's time to revert back to the original colour pattern and knit a round with main colour only, and to begin decreasing the number of sts. On ndl 1, k16, k2tog, k1. On ndl 2, knit across. On ndl 3, k1, k2tog tbl (or ssk), k16. Sts now number 18/20/18. Note: You will always do your decreases on the plain, main colour rounds.
- Work your next round with both colours, knitting each st in the opposite colour of the one two rounds before, just as you did way back when, with one exception. The st knitted into the decrease of the previous round will always be in your main colour. It makes things look a little tidier this way (see Heel Detail image). If you'd rather not worry about it, just knit it with whichever colour feels right to you.
- Knit around with main colour only, decreasing one st in from ends of ndls 1 and 3 as previous. Sts now number 17/20/17.
- Knit another round with both colours, using main colour over decreased sts, as described above.
- Repeat these two rounds until sts are reduced to 11/20/11.
- Continuing in colour pattern, knit without decreasing til work measures about 5 3/4 inches (14.5 cm) from edge of heel flap, ending with a solid main colour round.
- Toe - Rearrange sts to 10/21/11. Work next round in colour pattern as established for the body of the sock.
- We're now switching back to the colour pattern used on the heel. In other words, we'll no longer be working a plain, solid main colour round between the multi coloured rounds. Again, working the decrease sts in main and the others in the colour opposite the colour of the st below them, make a toe decrease round as follows.
- Changing colours as needed, knit to within last 3 sts of ndl 1, k2tog with main, k1. On ndl 2, k1, k2tog tbl (or ssk), knit to within last 3 sts, k2tog w main, k1. Ndl 3, k1, k2tog tbl (or ssk), knit to end of ndl. 9/19/10
- Continuing to change colours as needed, and working st above decrease of previous row in main colour, work a round without decreasing.
- Repeat these last 2 rounds until sts number 7/15/8, ending with a non decrease round.
- Begin decreasing every round til sts number 4/9/5.
- Knit 4 sts from ndl 1 onto ndl 3, close toe with 3 needle bind off, grafting (kitchener st) etc., as you prefer.
- Firstly, once you've made these socks, you'll see that no, I did not make this pattern more difficult that it needed to be. :) It's very tricky trying to get the dotted pattern to line up correctly as you change the number of sts, pick up sts, etc.
- These socks are thick. After all, they're made with two strands of worsted. You may have to think of them as hiking socks, or just to wear around the house as slippers.
- I may end up breaking up this pattern into two pages, so if you start working on it and come back to a different looking page, just go right to the bottom to see if it's continued on another page.
- As I mentioned above, I'm in the process of making matching Knitted Transit Mittens. Once done, there will be a link from this page, as well as from the main Knitting Page.
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